'Tano' Chardonnay 2023
Vineyard: Anandale Farm
Subregion: Blind River
Region: Marlborough
Vintage: 2023
Soil Type: Complex silts and loams
Climate: Cool, windy, maritime
Clone: Clone 95
Viticulture: Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand Certified (SWNZ)
Growers: The Turner Family
Appellation Marlborough Wine Certified.
Winemaker's Notes:
High-toned and intense grapefruit, white florals and an attractive hazelnut and savoury musk form a complex aromatic picture. A highlight of this Chardonnay is its vividly sketched, elevated acidity gifted by the very cool, exposed coastal position of the Anandale Farm vineyard in Blind River. Layered flavours of grapefruit, lemon citrus and hazelnut combine with the vibrant acid line delivering vitality, persistence and a lengthy finish.
About Gaetano Tobin (1963 - 2021)
A visionary, a leader, a mentor and a dear friend, Gaetano ‘Tano’ Tobin was instrumental in establishing and championing the crus of Soave, describing these wines as the Chablis of Italy.
Having worked with Matt in this prestigious white wine appellation of Italy for more than 20 years as head of Cantina di Monteforte d'Alpone, Tano’s larger-than-life character, equally commanding stature and a special friendship formed over the pursuit of fine wine have left a lasting impression that we memorialize in our new single vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay, ‘Tano’.
We have honoured Tano's life and vision by crafting a wine that embraces his inspirations; ones that we also share.
Winemaking & Viticulture:
Bespoke 25-hectolitre botti (Italian for large barrels) ferment and mature the small parcel of Anandale Farm Clone 95 Chardonnay hand-harvested from the wild, cool climate coast of Blind River in Marlborough. Wild, full solids fermentation in our botti takes place over many months, maturing on lees for a total of 15 months. We gently rack and bottle it without filtration in the second winter following harvest.
This combination of subregion, microclimate and winemaking delivers a vivid and pristine cool climate Chardonnay of profound complexity shifting the dial once more to the stylistic capabilities of our region.
Unfined, unfiltered.
Reviews
2023 Vintage:
96 POINTS - ‘From Blind River, a small subregion to the south of Awatere Valley, this is a very pure wine. Bright citrus, fine white peach and delicate nutty notes; a delicious savoury, silky palate with a briny oyster-shell note and invitingly brisk acidity. Very sleek and precise with good tension and length. Quite stripped back and all the better for it. Appellation Marlborough Wine certified.’ - EMMA JENKINS MW | DECANTER
97 POINTS - ‘This is a beautiful first-release single-vineyard chardonnay with subtle yet intense hazelnuts and sliced cooked apples with hints of Meyer-lemon character. Medium-bodied, it has an extremely long finish with structure and wonderful persistence. The hazelnuts and lightly spiced pears to the hints of cedar are so enticing. Drink or hold.’ JAMES SUCKLING
96 POINTS - ‘A clearly cool-climate chardonnay with hazelnut and saline/oyster shell flavours and refreshing citrus characters together with surprising weight and richness. Accessible now but with good cellaring potential.’ BOB CAMPBELL
95 POINTS -‘Initial notes of smoke and flint blow off with air to reveal a subtle florals, oatmeal, roasted nuts, earth and stone-fruit. The mid-palate starts quite giving with juicy orange fruit and tangy, saline acidity before firming up with chalky grip and edgy minerality on the back. Currently brooding and young, it will open up in a year or two to reveal its innate complexity.’ STEPHEN WONG
5 STARS - ‘The distinctive, very elegant 2023 vintage was grown in the Blind River district, at "one of the coolest, coastal sites in all of Marlborough." Fermented and lees-aged for 15 months in Italian 'botti' (large oak vessels holding 2,500 litres), it has a highly fragrant, mealy bouquet. Showing obvious potential for cellaring, it is mouthfilling and vibrant, with rich, peachy, citrusy, biscuity flavours, balanced acidity, and excellent weight, drive and harmony. Best drinking mid-2026+.’ MICHAEL COOPER MA ONZM
95 POINTS - ‘A complex and intriguing wine. Great colour and aromatic development within the bouquet, a complex wine with layers of fruit, lees spice and acidity, harmonious and detailed. On the palate a dry wine touches first then a rush of flavour from what I can only describe as combinations of texture and flavour from citrus to nut, to echoes of stone fruit and mineral. Dry, lengthy, new and exciting. Best drinking from mid to late 2025 through 2031+.’ CAMERON DOUGLAS
17.5 POINTS - ‘Very slightly flinty at first, though this is less noticeable on the day after opening. There's subtle oak notes – creamy, mealy – and ripe citrus with a light note of fruit sweetness but the ripeness is just on the edge, so the fruit sings without being overly rich. There's also a combination of minerally crushed stones and something else I find hard to pinpoint, like a crushed aromatic waxy leaf. I can imagine this would develop a touch of lanolin and toast with bottle age. On the palate, there's immense finesse and tension. Absolutely no lack of fruit but it is knife-edge ripe, giving intensity rather than masses of fruit flavour. Pristine. Very gently rounded out by the lees. Given the full solids, I expected a little more struck-match character but here it is only a light flinty expression. Long and tense and likely to age well – and gets better and better after the bottle has been open a couple of days. This could easily be mistaken from good premier cru Chablis, even if it has that little bit of richness from New Zealand's cool but sunny climate.’ JULIA HARDING MW | JANCISROBINSON.COM
91 POINTS - ‘The 2023 Chardonnay Tano is a concentrated and attractively chewy, barrel-fermented expression of this cool corner at the bottom of the wine world. While ripe, it's tangy with lemon and nutty oak- and lees-derived flavors, which also bring roundness and additional substance to the vibrant fruit. The finish is medium-long, leaving a savory and salty impression. You can approach this now, but it will be delicious over the coming four to seven years, at a minimum.’ REBECCA GIBB MW | VINOUS.COM
View Tasting Notes - 2023















